Thursday, October 6, 2011

Saxon + Parole

Saxon + Parole - Click image for slide show by Nick Solares
I had dinner at Saxon + Parole the other night. I have to admit I was rather drunk by the time I got to the restaurant, even more so by the end of the meal. Consequently my recollection of the food and photography are both a little hazy.

I do remember looking up at the large halo of Edison bulbs above me and thinking that the critics are going to hate this place. I hadn't eaten anything at this point its just that the restaurant subscribes to many of the current trends that tend to turn off the old guard - a loud, boisterous bar scene, a general "olde timey" motif, a nod to locavorism (S+P produce their own Rye and whiskey finds its way in to all sorts of menu items) A generally young, hip crowd. Think Bored to Death meets Boardwalk Empire.

None of this particularly appeals to me but stacks of seafood followed up by dry aged prime steaks and a burger thrown in for good measure sure do. Given my inebriated state I was rather hungry and devoured all that was laid before me. As far as I can recall it was all very good.

We started with a tower of fresh seafood and a creamy chicken mousse spiked with port. The brawny steaks that followed had a decent char and a bold dry aged funk, especially the ribsteak. A velvety bone marrow Bearnaise (daintily served in a bone marrow pipe) was a nice flourish but ultimately superfluous - the steaks pack enough flavor on their own.

I will have to go back for the burger, it all sort of fell apart on me when we divided it in to quarters for sharing and I didn't really get to try it in all its glory. None of the food lasted long on the table, although I may have eaten most of it, including the desserts.

I need to return to S+P for a proper evaluation. And not just because I was rather drunk on my last visit. There is a Guinness & five spice glazed short rib for two that I am most interested in trying.

Saxon + Parole 316 Bowery New York, NY 10079

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